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2008, 302skincareonline  -  21st Century Skincare

Skincare Products
302 Treatment Plans

• Overview    
• Introduction
• Studio Care & Notes
• Pigmentation: Face
• Pigmentation: Décolleté & Hand


In Caucasian skin, pigment blotches that change from red/yellow to darker brown/black often occur during aging. We have noticed a great increase in the reports of skin with pigmenting problems, especially among current and former users of daily exfoliating acid based products.

Even intermittent use of these acidic products can cause pigment problems, apparently. Sooner or later. This makes sense, in that the skin produces melanocytes as a protective function. Skin undergoing exfoliation is stressed and will produce melanocytes above its baseline rate.  In many cases, the pigment problem is addressed using the very acids that contributed to the problem. Exfoliating them would seem to be logical, but often this backfires and the pigment goes deeper.

About 40% of the pigment problems are in the dermis and are not to be reached by exfoliants.  Ultrasound can be effective here many times. But, if exfoliation products have not been used, then it is reasonable to exfoliate once (preferably without acids) to see if that will do the trick.

Deep peels, medically supervised, can succeed with surface pigment problems if the problem is particularly acute. This approach usually entails a great deal of 'stay at home' time afterwards. Unfortunately, too, the pigment condition often returns with a vengeance because, again, the skin in such a stressed, exposed condition after any peel will turn up the melanocyte production machine.

Sunscreens will not help to avoid that. There are a variety of techniques and remedies that have been used in the past to address that difficulty but they are not in the best health interest of the client.  If exfoliation does not resolve the pigmentation problem, and may aggravate it if continued, there are a variety of new techniques, progressive in intensity that may be used.

The treatment of routine choice in medical esthetics relies on the use of immune suppressants such as retinoids and hydroquinone, the latter banned in most countries for health concerns (on scanty evidence) and now under review for similar action by the United States FDA.

This approach carries substantial risk of a hyper-pigmentation rebound sequence when that regime is discontinued, and that is our sole dislike of hydroquinone. In these cases, melanocyte population bursts occur with unnerving frequency and the skin is usually worse off than before the problem pigmentation treatments began. This is particularly true when acid peels have been employed.

302 provides a more natural pathway, but one that is highly effective and certainly safer than the conventional practices. Skin that is not undergoing hormonal surges, as during pregnancy, and is resilient, resists pigment ‘blooms.’ The suppression of the immune system in order to suppress melanocyte over-production has it exactly backwards for normal skin conditions and even in conditions of unusual spikes in skin activity due to hormonal changes.  What is necessary is to promote a resilient, not a suppressed, immune system, topically speaking. This means encouraging factors that resist UV – not suppressing factors which react to it excessively.  Trying to do both simultaneously, incidentally, does neither.

Sunscreens, especially UV reflectors such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide are the first choice to resisting damage that induces excess pigmentation.

Inhibitors which interfere with enzymatic processes that produce melanin are also doomed to failure in the long run. Sooner, rather than later, a resistance to inhibitors is underway and the continued use of them will actually promote more melanocyte production, in our experience.

The use of Lightening Drops or Lightening: Décolleté and Hand treatment products rely on promotion of skin resilience or resistance to environmental UV by encouraging a healthy metabolic response to it. The build-out of receptors to vitamin C is well documented and this occurs deep in the skin, at the dermal layer. The build-out however turns to a depletion if the vitamin C uptake is excessive. The skin will react to excess metabolites by shutting down receptors and in consequence a build-out of defensive macrophages and other undesirable esthetic activities occur, especially uneven melanocyte production.

Despite much product-oriented ballyhoo, the use of pure ascorbic acid on the skin is not even slightly desirable.  A charged particle, an acid particle, sends up an immediate signal that manifests itself in an irritation response. The histology is definitive. The irritation response, if sustained over even several days, leads to atrophy of blood vessels, poor lymphocyte transfer, chemotaxin buildup and swelling. It is this latter condition that is identified as successful wrinkle removal (!).  In reality, the depletion of the skin that accompanies sustained receptor fatigue brought about by excessive and charged particle metabolites such as pure ascorbic acid is undeniable. It affects some individuals more than others.  But bottom line, the sustained activity of this negative sort tends to produce much more in the way of defensive melanocyte populations.

For this reason, 302 advocates neutral charged ingredients that will undergo the enzymatic cascade to deliver the same metabolite (ascorbic acid) to the cell. By undergoing this cascade, the skin is less inclined to inflammatory or irritation response.  Still, even with that, it is necessary to reduce the frequency of topical application of any metabolite in order to avoid the energy depleting “warehousing” of the same. The reservoirs that are created in the skin to deal with topical substances are there to protect the vital organs and this must be understood in context of a toxic event or series of events to be addressed by the lymphatic and immune systems.

The signaling of defense mechanisms give rise to increased and unwanted melanocyte populations. Dosing high concentrations of metabolites at less frequent intervals, appears to provide a much more sustainable and less invasive approach to improving the resilience of the skin and its look.

In our experience, a two or three time per week application of reasonably concentrated non-charged ascorbate, in this case, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, also called ascorbyl isopalmitate (Google “BV-OSC” for study information) stimulates receptor populations and overall metabolic improvement and therefore reduced melanocyte activity.  The excess pigment that has already formed and taken to extracellular fate, tends to be more easily transported out of the dermis, where about 40% of all pigment devolves, as a consequence of improved metabolic activity from these promptings of high concentrations of ascorbic acid in non-charged form.

For the epidermis, similarly, the use of a retinoid, or member of the Vitamin A family, when provided at reasonably higher dose in a non-charged particle (i.e. not retinoic acid) twice or at most three times per week, avoids the immune suppression brought about by daily application and prompts increases in desirable metabolic activity (angiogenesis, cell differentiation, etc). Retinoid receptor populations increase in this scenario and the combination of both retinoid and ascorbic compounds leads to vastly improved skin quality and look, without compromising the health of the tissue.

As always, the skin softening properties of 302 avocado phyto-lipids assist in this outcome of  resilient, healthy, even-toned skin. For the client, a simple regime of minimal products provides an improvement over time that is unsurpassed by any conventional method to date.


Of all the problems faced by the esthetician, pigment blotches seem the most confusing to decipher.  First, what is it you are dealing with? Is the spot a freckle or nevi, is it precancerous or "been there forever" - is it red, brown, black, blue or has the pigment disappeared altogether? At what point are you alarmed enough to call in the histopathologist?


• 302 Pigmentation Reduction Facial (Acid-Free)
• 302 Pigmentation Reduction Facial (Salicylic Acid)
• 302 Pigmentation Reduction: Décolleté & Hand
• 302 Ultrasound Facial: Pigmentation Reduction
• 302 Ultrasound Pigmentation Reduction: Décolleté & Hand

Pigmentation: Face

For reducing the uneven look caused by pigment blotches and spots

Recommended 302 Products:
Skin appropriate 302 Cleanser, Lightening Drops, A Boost, Recovery Plus, Calming Mist, SPF-15

Optional 302 Products:
Recovery Minerals (SPF-30)



Wash gently and quickly with Cleanser, pat dry.

Apply Calming Mist as desired.

Optional: Apply Recovery Plus for moisturizing.

For sun protection: apply Recovery Minerals (SPF-30) or the lotion, SPF-15 for casual daytime exposure. For longer exposure, which is highly undesirable during this exfoliation process, use SPF-30.

For extra moisturizing, Recovery Plus may be applied before applying either SPF-15 or SPF-30.


Tissue away any makeup. Apply 302 Cleanser as if a lotion, massage in gently. Add more plus water and massage suspension thoroughly, rinse very well. Pat dry.

Apply Calming Mist liberally to neck and face and leave skin wet.

Immediately apply Lightening Drops (3x per week) or A-Boost (3x per week) to neck and spread to forehead. A little goes a long way.  Add more mist to ensure even spreading.

Apply Recovery Plus as required.

Pigmentation: Décolleté & Hand

For reducing the uneven look caused by pigment blotches and spots

Recommended 302 Products:
Skin appropriate 302 Cleanser, Face & Body Bar, Lightening: Décolleté & Hand, A-Boost, Body Treatment, Calming Mist, SPF-15

Optional 302 Products:
Recovery Lotion Rx, SPF-30



Wash with Face & Body Bar and rinse very well.

Apply Calming Mist as desired.

Optional: Apply Body Treatment for moisturizing.

For sun protection: apply Recovery Minerals (SPF-30) or the lotion, SPF-15 for casual daytime exposure. For longer exposure, which is highly undesirable during this exfoliation process, use SPF-30.

For extra moisturizing, Recovery Lotion Rx may be substituted.


Wash with Face & Body Bar and rinse very well.

Apply Calming Mist as desired.

Apply Lightening: Décolleté & Hand and spread evenly.

Apply Recovery Plus, or Recovery Lotion Rx if required.